When I was a kid my little brother and I would often stay with our Italian grandparents for part of the summer. They had a swimming pool and a festive patio with glowing colored lanterns. Mammarella would make us her deep fried calzones for lunch after we had a swim. I remember the taste very well... a perfectly salted, olive oil, smokey ham, juicy melted ricotta/mozzarella essence of southern Italian bliss under the sun. During my recent trip to Italy, a little lunch shop on an island in the middle of Lake Maggiore successfully brought me back to that wonderful Mammarellian memory.